Pocket Pullin

Bronco and I just wrapped up our little road trip with 4 days of cranking on limestone pockets in the endless clifflines of Shelf Road. I had heard tales of its wonder, but never experienced the classic area for myself. Needless to say, it lived up to its reputation. (And needless to say, who says “needless to say?” If saying it were really needless, then shouldn’t you refrain from wasting time and ink by saying it in the first place; and if its worth saying then the phrase just becomes superfluous fluffery.)

shelf no rest

I digress. Back to more (un?)important stuff. Our original Read more…

Back from Hell

Airing it out on Filthy Sanchez (5.11ish), a beautiful Arete at the Ranch. Photo courtesy Lucas Marshall.

Airing it out on Filthy Sanchez (5.11ish), a beautiful Arete at the Ranch. Photo courtesy Lucas Marshall.

That title is far too negative sounding, but I’m not the one who decided to name the event “24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell” rather than “A Full Day of Horseshoe Heaven.” Big Andy made that call, so I’ll just adopt his preferred nomenclature.

It would be equal parts impossible and boring to recount the entire week, so I’ll save everyone the trouble of skipping over a long post. Needless to say, we had ourselves a good ole time in them thar hills. The Ozark Mountains. Arkansas. God’s country.

The week at the Ranch leading up to the comp held plenty of climbing, partying, mullets, and $3 breakfast specials. As always Kristo and his crew of Patagonia athletes were a blast to hang out with, although it was too bad the Canuck couldn’t make it this year.

The comp itself was incredible. Les and I – “The Shawtay Slayas” – held our own and came in at 6th place. We had decided to try and climb for quality rather than quantity, so the vast majority of our 57 pitches apiece were 5.10 to 5.12. We even sent a 5.12 (albeit a very easy one) on hour 23!

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Le Creek Wrapup

Life has its lessons, and this trip’s lesson was the importance of rest days. Being the unthinking brute that I am, I managed to muscle my way through ten straight days of climbing without a single rest day all trip. The result: some really average days where I didn’t climb much anyways and a lot of almost sending.

Nevertheless, The Creek did not disappoint. And you don’t go there to send anyways (unless you’re this guy), you go there to get your ass handed to you on a dusty sandstone platter. If you’ve never woken up to a desert sunrise Read more…

not a bad view

Here’s a panorama I quickly stitched together, not the cleanest photoshop job (actually GIMP – opensource rocks) but enough to give you the idea. Our last day of climbing in The Creek together Adam and I went up to Reservoir Wall for the first time and in addition to discovering some sweet lines we happened upon the best view of the valley. Click to enlarge. Enjoy.

Zion – Day 5

We were still a little beat when Sick and I awoke for our last day in Zion. Our sights were set on the 2nd pitch of Organasm. Organasm is originally a four pitch aid line at 5.8 C2, but the 2nd pitch features a large roof which goes free at 5.11. Since both of us wanted the lead, and neither of us is generous enough to give up on such a sweet line, we farkled for it. My superior rock-paper-scissor skills were vindicated, so Sick led the 1st pitch of awkward wideness, and I set off on the stellar 2nd pitch. Here’s a little video of yours truly on the onsight (the video is admittedly crappy, but until I get a proper editing platform that’s just the way it is):

Organasm Roof 5.11 from Maury Birdwell on Vimeo.

We then rapped off, shed our harnesses, had a quick snack, and hit the road for Oklahoma; driving straight through the night for 18 hours. A perfect ending to a fantastic trip! Thanks to the Sicklers for putting up with me and giving me the chance to crank on some splitter desert sandstone!

Zion – Day 4

After a rest day to rack up which included a run into Vegas for dinner, we roused ourselves early to get a jump on the day – which happened to be Sickler’s birthday. A quick breakfast, romp across the chilly Virgin River, short hike and we were at the base of Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2, 9 pitches, 900 feet). After a bit of debate and self doubt, we decided to gun for it in a day rather than slavishly haul a bunch of crap up the wall for a couple of days (like the party above us who had started a day earlier).

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Zion – Day 2

The morning of the 21st saw us sitting at the base of Monkeyfinger 5.12, staring at a slow moving party on the second pitch and weighing our options. After they still hadn’t begun the third – and crux – pitch in almost half an hour we decided to bail and go do Touchstone 5.9 C2 (not a bad consolation, considered by many to be one of the best aid/free climbs anywhere). This meant we had to run back by camp to pick up our aid gear, and of course by the time we go back to the base of Touchstone, another party was starting.

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Zion – Day 1

The Sicklers picked me up from the Albuquerque airport at 10:30 PM and we hit the road. We rolled into the Park at around noon the next day, pressing our faces to the windows as we tried simultaneously to take in the amazing rock and keep the truck on the road. For the uninitiated, Zion is a literal canyon that sits below ‘ground level,’ this is somewhat hard to believe when you’re down in it since it is so vast. The road that enters from the northeast travels through a mile long tunnel – with occasional glimpses out carved windows – before bursting into the brilliant canyon.

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Quite a Weekend

A bit belated…

When Arnie and Andrew picked me up from the airport last Wednesday, they stated the obvious, “We’re taking you straight to Whiskey Wednesday.” (Every Wednesday at the Sundowner in Boulder $3 gets you a whiskey shot and a glass of PBR.) The night ended predictably at Round Midnight, with our owning the dance floor; literally, there was no one else on it but us. Also predictably, it fell to me to pilot us home to Golden.

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This Stuff Don't Feel Like Plastic…

senecaFor the first time since school started back up – other than the trip to Arkansas – I finally got outside to paw on some real rock. Not that grappling plastic and getting gawked at by gumbies when you take a sick nasty winger off the arch isn’t satiating; but sometimes its good to get outside so you can appreciate just how great it is inside. Despite the much longer approaches, and infinitely more difficult route finding (haven’t the guys at Seneca heard of colored tape?) we managed to remain entertained.

Andre and I got stuck in some traffic, so we didn’t pull into the parking lot until after five, not giving us a whole lot of time to cram in some climbing. Undeterred, we grabbed a rope, some draws, and our headlamps and dashed up to The Cave. Seneca is pretty old school, and has a fairly stout traditional ethic, but The Cave hosts a few harder sport climbs that have been bolted in recent years. We each gave a few runs on a short 5.12a to get warm, then turned to The Threat 5.12b. Although sport climbing isn’t usually the reason folks head to Seneca, if you’re going that direction I would highly recommend that guy, molto bene.

The next few days we cragged around, mostly on gear although we nabbed a few bolted and mixed lines. Some of the notables were:

Spinnaker 5.10c – botled arete, beautiful line and exposure, but *#$%ing hard for a 10c.

The Changling 5.11c – pretty good, crux is bolted and gear above the crux is thin for a little spice.

Malevolence 5.10c – the first half of this trad line is overhung and it gave me a good run. Little did we know that our buddy Hunt, who cleaned my gear after my lead, was the first ascensionist!

Muscle Beach 5.11a – often linked together into 1 long pitch, we split it up into the original 3 pitches since were trying to warm up on it and climbing with a pack. Wild finish over a roof, awesome!

Cottonmouth 5.10a to Venom 5.10b – super classic! Venom was also FA’d by Hunt.

Sidewinder 5.11a – two short pitches that are each fantastic! The first has a cool lip encounter and the second is a balancy seam up the face. Probably my favorite line in Seneca thus far.

maurysenecaFor some reason my head was off this weekend; I was climbing slow and uncertain. If you’ve ever seen me climb, this is not my style. I don’t know what’s up. Maybe since I had a good summer and climbed well in the comp, I need some time to step back and recharge the mental batteries. Perhaps I’ll take advantage of all that debt I’m accumulating and start actually studying the law…