Les sending.
Anarchitect is an uber-classic 5.12d sport line in Clear Creek Canyon at the aptly named Anarchy Wall. I got on it once last October, and was planning to go back the next day, but our day got sidetracked when a chick blew her basejump and pounded into the wall…read about that crazy day here.
Anywho, I finally made it back to that beautiful wall yesterday. Our boy Les had been working it and fallen a few times painfully close to the top. We warmed up. We traded burns. Les fell on his first two, but like a true champ sacked up and sent on his third go of the day. In case you’re wondering, three burns on a 5.12d within a few hours is pretty exhausting so mad props to our boy.
As for myself: I felt solid, made it through the crux moves on my second go, so if I can make it back up there (shouldn’t be a problem since its a 10 minute drive from our place and a 5 minute approach) the send should go down soon.
Anarchitect has a pretty interesting little side story. A few years ago some dude worked it using the bolts, then eventually sent it using only traditional gear (the stuff you put into cracks in the rock and remove after the climb). After he sent, he starting decrying the use of bolts on the climb, going so far as to claim he was going to chop them; despite the fact that he himself used them extensively to learn the moves before sending it with trad gear. In case you’re wondering, climbing Anarchitect without the bolts would be serious. A fall from the crux would place you very close to the ground, if not on it. Long story short, our antagonist is a douche.
Yours truly crushing the crux.
Another bonus highlight of the day was Tower onsighting a short but powerful little 5.12b on the wall. Sickness. Sadly, no pictures of that one.
A few more photos:
Me throwing a deadpoint.
Les setting up for the final crux.
