Bronco and I just wrapped up our little road trip with 4 days of cranking on limestone pockets in the endless clifflines of Shelf Road. I had heard tales of its wonder, but never experienced the classic area for myself. Needless to say, it lived up to its reputation. (And needless to say, who says “needless to say?” If saying it were really needless, then shouldn’t you refrain from wasting time and ink by saying it in the first place; and if its worth saying then the phrase just becomes superfluous fluffery.)
I digress. Back to more (un?)important stuff. Our original objective after the Ouray Ice Fest was Indian Creek, which is the favorite cragging area of us both. Alas, the stars frowned upon us in the form of some chilly forecasts, so we turned to Shelf as a viable alternative. Sunday we were ice climbing in the Box Canyon above Ouray; Monday we were climbing with our shirts off at The Bank wall in Shelf. Rad.
The climbing at Shelf takes a little getting used to, but that being said I think it suited my style quite well: technical movement and tricky footwork rather than cranking superhard on bad holds or enduro cave thuggery. I took a rest day on our second day, and the next day Bronco started the send train! First he walked up Future Fossil 5.12c, then Jaime sent her project Back to the Future 5.11b/c, and lastly I – not relishing the pressure of the situation – managed a clean go of No Rest for the Wicked 5.12a. No Rest follows a crack/seam, beautiful line and perfect for me due to its occasional hand jams and finger locks. Us traddies love cracks on sport routes.
Bronco crushing Future Fossil, stylin it in the white shades.
The next and final day of Shelf I very nearly dispatched Tit’s Up 5.12b on my second burn. The final crux bit starts with a long, static, balancy sideways reach to a good crimp. I stretched out, and as the fingers of my left hand began to curl around the sharp limestone edge the resultant excitement caused me to loosen my body tension just enough, and I teetered backwards from the wall. I screamed an explitive in anger and frustration, pulled back up, finished the route, and cleaned it. Tit’s Up is 80 feet long and sustained, I had milked the one decent rest for probably 10 minutes to get some umph back, and there was no way I had enough left for yet another go. Alas, I will have to return for the send.
Despite my failure, the Bronc’ saddled up and cruised up Cure for the Common Crimp 5.13a on his second attempt! Kid is killin it right now. What’s that boulder problem Tommy Caldwell put up… 30 Is The New 20?
Off into the sunset...
Good Trip! Wish we were still bathing in the sun…