As I mentioned in a previous post, the Ice Fest was an rad time. Basically a big party punctuated by some climbing here and there. If you’re looking just to go get some mileage on the cold stuff, then steer clear of the festival. But, if you’re up for seeing some good friends, raising a pint or seven, and watching some sick strong men and fems crank in the mixed competition then you have come to the right place.
Along those lines, I also detailed briefly before how our friend Sam Elias eeked out the most exciting climbing competition onsight in the history of the sport (at least what little history I’ve observed). But you don’t have to take my word for it, because Emsmelly shot some video of his hair-raising finish. If you’re too ADD to indulge in all four minutes, skip to the last thirty seconds. Enjoy.
Sam Elias finishing second at 2010 Ouray Ice Festival climbing comp from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
As for the rest of us lowly folks, we managed to scratch around some ice and rocks. The last day I got to demo some so-called “fruit boots” – lightweight ice boots with crampons bolted on – and I finally saw what all the fuss was about. Ice/mixed climbing in those is like the difference between climbing rock in sneakers and rock shoes. If only I had $599 to throw down for a pair…
The last night of the festival was the highly anticipated “Superhero Party,” so named for our fallen hero Guy Lacelle, who was recently killed climbing in Bozeman, Montana. Unofficially, many also raised a glass to the numerous other titans who have taken the finally voyage this year: Johnny Copp, Micah Dash, John Bachar, Craig Lubben…to name a few. I had the pleasure to take an ice climbing clinic with Guy a few years back and hang out with him as we watched the mixed climbing competition. His passion for the sport was clearly channeled through the joy of watching others enjoyment as he coached and coaxed others to the top of routes in the canyon. He will be missed.
Another wild phenomenon going on the canyon was Will Gadd’s “Endless Ascent.” He crammed as many ascents of a 40m WI4 route as possible into 24 hours. 194 pitches. Twenty eight thousand some odd feet. Ridiculous. Alpinist did a good interview with him here.
I’d like to say that I got in plenty of pitches to feel fit for my upcoming trip to the Canadian Rockies, but I fear it was not so. I didn’t lead a pitch all weekend…oh well. I’m sure the necessity of the moment will be enough motivation when I get there.
