
Sick nasty Honda Accord with carbon fiber hood in the campsite parking lot. Werd.
Spent a beautiful long weekend at the New River Gorge with our very own Skilla and a few other folks. Couldn’t have asked for better weather: 60s and clear skies. Climb in the sun in the morning, then switch to the shade with your shirt off in the afternoon. Perfect.
Not much to report on the weekend, I continued the saga of flailage that has been my climbing the last few months. Came close to onsighting a 5.12a at Endless Wall but fell on the final moves of the crux when my left hand popped off a crimper (ouch).
Later that day as Skilla and I were walking along to find the girls I spotted a beautiful line. Looking up I saw 15 feet of broken corner, to a short, juggy roof, to a splitter crack ending under a bulge (think undercling to the side, reach over it, traverse back), and more splitter crack. We didn’t have trad gear with us, but it didn’t matter because the line was BOLTED! The bolts were a bit spaced, 7 or so in 90 feet, and you could cut down on the runout with trad gear. But Read more…
furry, November 19th 2009 |
Tags: bolts, new, new river gorge, sandstone, sport
Posted in Uncategorized

Airing it out on Filthy Sanchez (5.11ish), a beautiful Arete at the Ranch. Photo courtesy Lucas Marshall.
That title is far too negative sounding, but I’m not the one who decided to name the event “24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell” rather than “A Full Day of Horseshoe Heaven.” Big Andy made that call, so I’ll just adopt his preferred nomenclature.
It would be equal parts impossible and boring to recount the entire week, so I’ll save everyone the trouble of skipping over a long post. Needless to say, we had ourselves a good ole time in them thar hills. The Ozark Mountains. Arkansas. God’s country.
The week at the Ranch leading up to the comp held plenty of climbing, partying, mullets, and $3 breakfast specials. As always Kristo and his crew of Patagonia athletes were a blast to hang out with, although it was too bad the Canuck couldn’t make it this year.
The comp itself was incredible. Les and I – “The Shawtay Slayas” – held our own and came in at 6th place. We had decided to try and climb for quality rather than quantity, so the vast majority of our 57 pitches apiece were 5.10 to 5.12. We even sent a 5.12 (albeit a very easy one) on hour 23!
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furry, October 5th 2009 |
Tags: 24, 24HHH, arkansas, comp, horseshoe, sandstone, sport
Posted in Trip Report, Uncategorized
After a rest day to rack up which included a run into Vegas for dinner, we roused ourselves early to get a jump on the day – which happened to be Sickler’s birthday. A quick breakfast, romp across the chilly Virgin River, short hike and we were at the base of Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2, 9 pitches, 900 feet). After a bit of debate and self doubt, we decided to gun for it in a day rather than slavishly haul a bunch of crap up the wall for a couple of days (like the party above us who had started a day earlier).
Read more…
furry, December 4th 2008 |
Tags: aid, angels, big wall, climbing, landing, prodigal, sandstone, sickler, zion
Posted in Trip Report